Which lead pipe threads to use?

[HornboneandVocals]

Hi there

I’ve been playing on an XO 1240 Indy bass for 6 years and have recently been thinking about making modifications to make the sound profile more akin to what I’m looking for.

I dialed in a mouthpiece that I’m very satisfied with, and now I’m looking towards different leadpipes.

The XO leadpipe threads are a curious beast, and while unique I’m going to have a tech remove them and solder different threads on. The question is to what threads are good options (and are even possible to find?)

I’m also going to eventually get removable leadpipe threads on my Conn 88HCL. (Yes, I like controversial horns)

Any thoughts opinions or advice welcome

[Matt K]

I’d go either Shires or Getzen/Edwards perosnally. I’ve had bi thread adapters installed and they can be a little hard to get on. Hard enough that it actually warps the slide out of alignment. Shires are a little easier to get on too fwiw

[hornbuilder]

they can be a little hard to get on. Hard enough that it actually warps the slide out of alignment.

Your tech is doing something wrong. Installing a threaded receiver collar should have zero negative impact on a slide.

[Matt K]

Oh sorry, no that's not what I meant. I mean the threads themselves are harder to screw the leadpipes in. Several of my coarse threaded leadpipes get caught about halfway into them --- and this is true even before installation, just the bi-threaded receiver and a fine or coarse threaded ring, attached to nothing. You have to twist them with sufficient force to get it in that it can cause minor alignment issues.

Given the easy availability of rings, I find it's better just to stick with coarse or fine grained collars and swap them out accordingly, testing with an adapter if you really want to first.

[Lhbone]

Oh sorry, no that's not what I meant. I mean the threads themselves are harder to screw the leadpipes in. Several of my coarse threaded leadpipes get caught about halfway into them --- and this is true even before installation, just the bi-threaded receiver and a fine or coarse threaded ring, attached to nothing. You have to twist them with sufficient force to get it in that it can cause minor alignment issues.

Given the easy availability of rings, I find it's better just to stick with coarse or fine grained collars and swap them out accordingly, testing with an adapter if you really want to first.

My tech talked to Mike Olsen about this very issue. If you meet resistance when screwing in a leadpipe on their bi-thread installer, then you have to back it out and keep twisting another 180 degrees to reset the alignment of the threads. You absolutely should not force the leadpipe in when you meet resistance. It takes practice to "get to know" your bi-thread if you use Getzen/Edwards threads. The Shires drop in easily. When I order custom lead pipes, I go with Shires threads for that reason.

[HornboneandVocals]

Thank you all for the info! I’ll talk to my tech about bi-threads and shires threads. I’ll probably go with whatever is cheapest, college is rough on my wallet.