Lacquering at home?

[Chazzer69]

I've seen a few references to folks stripping and then applying new lacquer at home. The stripping part I've got, but I haven't run across any specifics on the lacquer used. Is there a brand/type that is recommended? Is this stuff you can buy in a spray can at a home improvement store some some such?

TIA

[brassmedic]

The stuff at the hardware store isn't very good. The good spray can lacquer is called Nikolas and is specially for musical instruments. You can get it from music tech suppliers like Ferree's and Allied. It's still only spray can lacquer, though. A real lacquer job would be done with a spray gun and cured in an oven.

[tbonesullivan]

I only do lacquer touch ups using Nikolas, on the areas that lose lacquer due to wear from my hands. Doing a full relaquer with a rattle can would be "fun", and not in a good way. Cork barrels and slide cross braces don't care that much if you put on a bit too much lacquer, but a bell will definitely care if you slop it on. There's also the issue of getting a nice even coating without missing areas, which is why experience and a spray gun is really necessary for that kind of work.

IMHO any horn worth a full re lacquer is worth sending to a pro to have it done right. If it isn't, just strip the lacquer and keep it raw brass. You can use car wax to keep it shiny.

[Chazzer69]

Thanks for the replies. Question answered!

[ghmerrill]

I'm assuming you're asking about a spray can approach rather than using a gun and mixing the lacquer.

I have used Deft Clear Wood Finish on doing a substantial relacquering of my 1947 Olds Standard. Don't be put off by the "Wood" in the name. You can get this stuff at woodworker supply stores or from Amazon. It comes in Satin, Semi-gloss, and Gloss versions. Relatively expensive (at about $16) for a single spray can, but it is really excellent: sprays very evenly and dries quickly. It is 100% nitrocellulose lacquer -- so be aware of the consequences of choosing that as opposed to alternatives. But if your horn is old enough (and it was easy to get the original finish off), it probably had nitro on it to begin with.

And also remember: surface preparation and spraying technique are everything. Practice a bit before you spray the horn if you haven't done this previously.

[tbonesullivan]

And also remember: surface preparation and spraying technique are everything. Practice a bit before you spray the horn if you haven't done this previously.

THIS. THIS. THIS. The surface must be oxidation and oil free. Completely clean. When I do spot relacquering I use a bit of rouge compound on a cloth or strip to get the metal nice and shiny. Then I use dish soap and water to clean it, and after that, a bit of naptha just to be sure. Then run outside and spray.

[BarryDaniels]

I use Cardinal nitrocellulose lacquer designed for musical instruments. Probably not meant for brass instruments but it is what I am use to and it seemed to work fine on the first horn I restored, a Holton TR150. I missed a spot on the gooseneck and it started to turn green, so I will need to redo that area.

[Chazzer69]

I use Cardinal nitrocellulose lacquer designed for musical instruments. Probably not meant for brass instruments but it is what I am use to and it seemed to work fine on the first horn I restored, a Holton TR150. I missed a spot on the gooseneck and it started to turn green, so I will need to redo that area.

Nice! What equipment are you using to spray?

[BarryDaniels]

I use a medium priced HLVP conversion gun from Harbor Freight. It actually works better than an expensive Italian gun I used previously. I can look up the model number if you are interested.

[Chazzer69]

I use a medium priced HLVP conversion gun from Harbor Freight. It actually works better than an expensive Italian gun I used previously. I can look up the model number if you are interested.

I can probably find it. Thanks!

[tbonesullivan]

I use Cardinal nitrocellulose lacquer designed for musical instruments. Probably not meant for brass instruments but it is what I am use to and it seemed to work fine on the first horn I restored, a Holton TR150. I missed a spot on the gooseneck and it started to turn green, so I will need to redo that area.

The "good" thing about Nitrocellulose lacquers is that they don't "cure", they dry, and will meld seamlessly together.

I also do touch ups on my electric guitars, and companies like Gibson and Heritage still use the old nitrocellulose lacquer for their clear coats.

[Doubler]

I've had success with Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X Extra Cover Gloss Clear. YMMV*. Scrupulous preparation and proper technique are crucial to attractive, durable results. Also, anything you can do to minimize dust and humidity will help. Using an appropriate respirator and eye protection is common sense, as is careful masking when required and using large dropcloths.

* In addition to using customary spray painting equipment, I've used rattle cans to paint/protect/lacquer many things, including jewelry, model cars, furniture, brass instruments, car parts, automobile body panels, and even entire cars, with remarkable results (other people's comments, not just me blowing my own horn [pun intended]) for over 60 years, so I've got the technique down pretty well. My point is that you can accomplish surprisingly good things if you're careful.

[ghmerrill]

The Rust-Oleum is an oil-based enamel rather than a lacquer. You might want to compare the properties of the lacquers and enamels before you make a choice.