TromboneChat

Hey everyone, loving the forum!

I love playing solotone mute sound and its really handy if I ever want to play acoustic with quieter instruments.

However, mine has split in two! see image below.

https://ibb.co/GJb1gXy

would i just glue this together as a fix or is there a better method? Are all of the solotone mutes this fragile or are there some models that are able to withstand a bit more? I'd like to think i'd be more careful but I just can't guarantee it sadly.

Many thanks!

Reglue it, and now you know to insert and remove it while holding the main body not the lower flare...

Thanks,

I think it broke some other way/got sat on or something. I took it everywhere, including festivals.

its actually very difficult to get it back on to glue it. The small part (flare) doesn't seem to fit all around the circle of the main part. I don't think force will help and not sure how to expand it

Just wondering.... how does it sound the way it is?

I would use a hot-melt glue gun.

This is the H&B Cleartone mute and it's still being made.

That said, the flare doesn't go all the way on to the cone; it just overlaps partway.

I believe you can soften the material on the flare with a good hair dryer or heat gun.

I'd carefully clean the mating surfaces with a small piece of FINE 100-120 GRIT sandpaper until the halves fit together without popping apart. Then I'd use Titebond Original Wood Glue and clean off any mess with a small piece of damp paper towel. After you let it set for 24 hours, you're back in business.

Yes, prep the mating surfaces. No, that almost certainly won't be enough to make it fit perfectly... these fiber wrap constructions are never actually round, so a certain amount of squeeze/spring fitting is inevitable.

Doug's hot-melt suggestion is good, and that glue can easily be cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol so if it comes off again the process can be repeated fairly easily. Titebond Original is good for many things but it doesn't gap-fill very well and it doesn't stick to its own residue, so if the joint opens up you have to sand everything back again or clean it up with nasty stuff like MEK. Epoxy if you're feeling permanent and brutal, but it's bad for you and a bit of a handful for the inexperienced.

I know more than a few people who have felt like doing this to their Solotone.

BassBoneFL wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 7:33 am I know more than a few people who have felt like doing this to their Solotone.

Keeping the corks well greased can help. You'll need less effort to insert and remove.

Am I the only one thinking it's not worth it to try to glue it back together, and that he should just buy a new one?

tbdana wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 5:05 pm Am I the only one thinking it's not worth it to try to glue it back together, and that he should just buy a new one?

Depends on how cheap you are and how you value your time. An hour of skilled labor is worth $35-50. A new mute will cost what -- $50 or so?

Is 1-2 hours of your time doing the glueback makes sense to you, good luck. If you won't get much learning from doing the repair, just get the new mute.

I had the same thing happen to mine many years ago. I don't remember for sure but I think I glued it back together with Elmer's Glue.

It's still in once piece.

I keep a can of Bondo on the shelf for when I need to make a really strong repair.
This stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-Original-F ... rce=1&th=1

BGuttman wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 5:10 pm

tbdana wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 5:05 pm Am I the only one thinking it's not worth it to try to glue it back together, and that he should just buy a new one?

Depends on how cheap you are and how you value your time. An hour of skilled labor is worth $35-50. A new mute will cost what -- $50 or so?

Is 1-2 hours of your time doing the glueback makes sense to you, good luck. If you won't get much learning from doing the repair, just get the new mute.

Are they ever as strong after being re-glued?

tbdana wrote: ↑Wed Jun 12, 2024 9:03 am

BGuttman wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 5:10 pm Depends on how cheap you are and how you value your time. An hour of skilled labor is worth $35-50. A new mute will cost what -- $50 or so?
Is 1-2 hours of your time doing the glueback makes sense to you, good luck. If you won't get much learning from doing the repair, just get the new mute.

Are they ever as strong after being re-glued?

Depends what you do. If it was me, 10 mins and yes.

Are they ever as strong after being re-glued?

Really depends on how you do it. If there's a lot of old glue left behind, or if you use an adhesive that isn't strong, probably not. If you clean the joint as was recommended and use a sturdy adhesive, probably (maybe even better).

Are they ever as strong after being re-glued?

The factory glue failed, so "as strong" is not good enough. Bondo is much stronger than TiteBond, or Elmers, or hot glue, or whatever glue the factory used.

I've used Titebond Original on many projects for decades, including repairing/restoring mutes and instrument cases (in one instance a shattered vintage trombone case), and in my experience, it lives up to its claim and its name. I like Titebond Original not only because of its strength, but also its ease of use and especially cleanup. Lack of strong odor is also a plus. I have mixed fine sawdust with the glue to create filler when necessary, as well, and it's sandable and paintable.

Anecdote: I once tested a number of wood repair adhesives by breaking a piece of wood, applying glue to the break, sticking the pieces back together, and sanding the cured repair to duplicate the original shape. I then attempted to break the piece of wood at the same spot as the original break. Unlike other products, the piece repaired with Titebond Original broke next to the original fracture; the repair was indeed stronger than the wood itself.

Disclaimer: I have a financial relationship with Titebond. The money goes from me to them; not the other way around.

Doubler wrote: ↑Wed Jun 12, 2024 8:37 pm I've used Titebond Original on many projects for decades,

Me too, and I couldn't agree more.
I build furniture in my wood shop, and Titebond is great for all the reasons cited.....on wood or other porous surfaces. Its grip is much more limited on non-porous surfaces such as fiberglass.