I might be the person who posted the photos. The scopes have become even more available since 2018. I've learned a couple things.
1) I now take them apart as soon as I get them. I get photos or diagrams of all the solder points. I have had to resolder EVERY connection for both my scope and the one I gave George McCracken. We also developed a strain relief band to reduce the frequency of fixing the connections.
2) Wireless is nice. Got a really long one (for checking footing drains) and liked the wifi connection to the tablet. Made placing the tablet independent of mucking with the camera.
The reason I'm resurrecting this OLD post that I ran across the pictures I think Bob mentions.
First, a look from the receiver toward the valve. You can see where the valve knuckle is inside the receiver.
1-Approaching receiver.jpg
Then a look with more light from the knuckle to the valve.
2-Approaching knuckle.jpg
... and a detailed look at matchup of valve shell and core
3-At knuckle,valve in Bb.jpg
... with a followup to show the valve partly depressed...
4-At knuckle, valve halway to F.jpg
Then, with the camera twisted about 90 degrees, the valve mostly on F:
8-In knuckle, valve closer to F.jpg
As an example of seeing things farther in, a view of the waterkey:
waterkey.jpg
I did not need the right angle mirror kit for any of these, but when checking French Horns I often do. That mirror has also been useful for checking surface condition way down in the slide. If I just shine a bore light down the slide it looks great. If I use this camera I can see all kind of places that I did not scrub appropriately.
As you can see from the first and second receiver shots, it's quite good for checking out solder around joints. But as Bob points out, the shorter the camera head, and more flexible the cable, the more likely you are to reach important areas, especially in multi-valved instruments.